Meet the Carteleros

• 23

I met these friendly gentlemen in downtown Buenos Aires while they were sticking posters on walls in the shopping street Florida. They aroused my attention because they were working together hand in hand so well, emphasizing what teamwork is all about. Both were accurate, precise, and pretty fast. It was just half a minute and the whole wall was done. As soon as they recognize me they began to pose to give me a chance to picture them. The posters, by the way, announce a concert with Rolando Paz, "Chato" Arizmendi and Ariel Puchetta to end the year with Latin music. Well, I'm not familiar with any of these musicians but I suppose they are popular in Uruguay because it seems the event is specifically aiming at Uruguayos living in Buenos Aires. Thank you for the picture, guys!

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Waiting for the Signal to Come

• 6

Buenos Aires is awash with public TV screens. Like it or not, you will encounter them virtually everywhere. One might think these screens are entertaining while waiting for the next train but in fact it's just annoying. One would wish that all these blatant screens would snooze soundly for awhile. The TV screen in this picture is obviously waiting for a signal to get back to broadcasting. The rather quiet specimen caught my attention exactly because it was so silent and waiting for a signal. Whenever I see this white noise image I kind of feel reminded of my childhood. I remember that I sometimes imagined those black and white dots were fighting each other and there was not a ghost of a chance of winning for either side.

The first of the month has arrived, and it is City Daily Photo Theme Day. December 2009 theme day is Waiting. If you like to see other interpretations of this subject Click here to view thumbnails for all participants.

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Commuters in the Subte Linea C

• 7

The subway network of Buenos Aires could be larger but at least the city is lucky to have a functioning underground transportation system that covers a large part of the city already. While four long lines lead straight to and from downtown Buenos Aires, there are two other lines that expand vertically. That is a good start but not yet sufficient. The city definitely needs more circular connectors between the radial lines. This would make public transport a lot easier, faster, and more efficient. Anyway, I love to tour around with the Subte. It tells so much about the people and the city.

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Cliché of Buenos Aires

• 7

Speaking of clichés, media and travel industry have created an image of Argentina and Buenos Aires in particular that consists mainly of tango, great food, great wine, great architecture, and great people. They tend to blank out all the not-so-nice parts of the city and the country. This is as unrealistic as expecting a crocodile to turn vegetarian. For many Argentines this city is a place to struggle to survive just like any other city in the world. The problem is universal: too much to die on but too little to live on. So, when you want to look behind all those clichés you have to leave the typical tourist routes. Don't be afraid. You will be surprised!

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Picada à la Argentina

• 22

A picada is a typical Argentine meal or pre-meal and perfectly fits to satisfy a growling stomach. Having it with friends is a fine Argentine tradition. Basically, a picada consists of a selection of hors d’oeuvres to munch on. It can be as simple as a few cold cuts and cheese or very opulent with many different items. This particular picada in the picture had some slices of salami (chorizo and salchichón), cured ham, cheese (Roquefort and Emmental), green and black olives (with pits), leberwurst (liver sausage), Spanish omelet (tortilla de patatas), vegs with mayonnaise and peanuts. It usually comes with bread. Oh, and don't forget to order a bottle of good red wine for you and your friends. That will make this typical Argentine dish even more authentic and tasty.

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Dancing with the Drill Instructors

• 9

Truth is Argentinians simply LOVE to dance. And yes, this is absolutely a true cliché. I have seen many people--young and old alike--shaking their bones in public places at day or night or in between. This must be their favored way to "de-stress" from the hectic but exciting life in Buenos Aires. I love watching them! This bunch of Porteños, however, was rather exercising than dancing "drilled" by some demanding dance instructors. Everybody could participate in this lesson for free. The guys did a wonderful sweat-inducing job and, obviously, everybody had a great time. They definitely rocked the crowd!

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Buenos Aires Skyline versus Biodiversity

• 5

The Buenos Aires skyline is relatively young and yet incomplete. The best view is either directly from the Río de la Plata or from the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve as in this case. This huge peaceful morsel of nature was formed by landfill from demolished buildings during the 1970s. Since then it developed itself into a biodiversity hotspot. It's ornithologist's paradise and an important bird area. Sadly, the biggest threat to this park is the skyline itself that comes ever so close. Let's hope the property sharks will keep their greedy hands off the nature reserve.

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Design Store in Palermo Soho

• 5

Design stores, whatever that may be, are a phenomenon of big cities such as Buenos Aires. They became a textbook indicator for a rising neighborhood. Out of a sudden, they shoot up like mushrooms. The neighborhood of Palermo Soho is the perfect example of such an upscale area. Here you will find plenty of these design stores.

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Ava Chagall Sign Fail

• 8

This picture is a good example of an inappropriately placed sign. Here, the combination of content and context creates a completely different connotation to the original meaning. Ava Chagall is a luxury boutique in trendy Palermo Soho. The odd combination of their signpost with the waste bin evokes a veiled reference to the quality of their clothings. Don't get me wrong, neither do I know the boutique nor the quality of their clothings but I do know that this sign is ineptly placed. To me, it says, "Dispose your newly bought Ava Chagall acquisitions right here!"

There's another sign fail post on Buenos Aires Perception:
Buenos Aires Subterráneo Sign Fail

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Tourists in La Boca

• 5

The Caminito area is a banal tourist enclave in the heart of La Boca. These three tiny little streets are separated from the surroundings by tourist police which makes it kind of strange to be there. Nonetheless, it is hugely popular with foreigners and crowded every single day. All the hustle and bustle reminds me of San Telmo's Feria on Defensa street on Sundays. You will find many touristy tchotchke shops, restaurants, and local artisans selling arts and crafts, not to mention the many tango shows.

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José Gervasio Artigas and Joaquín Lenzina

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In the center of the Plaza Independencia in Montevideo you'll find the monument of José Gervasio Artigas, the national hero of Uruguay. The history of Argentina and Uruguay is closely connected. Both belonged to the Spanish Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata. Seizing the opportunity of the Napoleonic Wars in Europe both countries declared their independence from the Spanish crown in the early 19th century. Artigas dedicated his life to the fight for a free, democratic, and federal Uruguay. His remains rest in a mausoleum under the ground of the Independence Place. Noteworthy is Artigas' close friendship with Joaquín Lenzina, called the Black Alsina, who once was captured by Portuguese soldiers and made a slave. Artigas bought him from captivity and released him. Alsina accompanied his savior till his death as a friend and biographer.

Ansina me llaman
Y Ansina yo soy...
Sólo Artigas sabe
Hacia donde me voy.

Ansina they call me
And Ansina I am ...
Only Artigas knows
Where I go.

¡Viva el oriental que ama al Paraguay! Poem by Lenzina (truncated)

• I'm reading: José Gervasio Artigas and Joaquín Lenzina

Lady and the Tramp in Tigre

• 6

When I was in Tigre the other day I ran into Lady and Tramp while they were waiting for a taxi boat into town. Tramp wanted to take his lady out to the Big City. They both love to dance the night away and Lady couldn't even remember her last evening out in Buenos Aires. Well, they asked me where to go. At first I was a little clueless, but then I had the idea to send them to a milonga. They pointed out that they love the Tango Argentino so it would be a great possibility for them to shake a leg. Thanks guys for the photo, hope you had fun!

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Inspiration is for any Age

• 7

Gotcha! You're younger than 20 years of age and appreciate art? What's wrong with you? This young guy was all alone and deeply contemplating this painting in the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA). So I guess it is not true to say that youngsters are not interested in well established art. At least in Buenos Aires you see many adolescents in the museums of the city and I don't speak of students on a field trip. Well, art has always been a great source of inspiration. It is truly for any age. Maybe this kiddo is the next Michelangelo or a new Banksy.

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El Odio Graffiti

• 9

Hatred is the most powerful negative emotion. It is destructive and sickening. Whatever you're going to do to satisfy this feeling will even create more hate. In the end it will eat you up, it destroys you from the inside-out. I know many people really hate graffiti, either way I'm looking forward to reading your comments. (:
The person that is responsible for this graffito named himself "El Odio" (lit. The Hatred). Dunno, who he is and why he chose this name. My guess is it is a reference to graffiti's bad reputation.

• I'm reading: El Odio Graffiti

R is for Rusty Ride

• 16

Buenos Aires' streets are full of old and decrepit cars. The other day I came across this green-blue-ish jalopy car parked in the streets of Palermo. It looked as if it would just fall apart and made me wonder what it was held together with. I saw at least no tape or string. Another point that caught my eye was the car's perfect adaption to its environment--its color almost matched the color of the facade of the houses! If you like these jalopies as I do there is another one for you here. Well, if Argentina had a "cash-for-clunkers" program, this one would certainly qualify.

Enjoy even more ABC Wednesday posts from around the world! Click here.

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Border Triangle of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay

• 15

The Misiones area had been a bone of contention for Argentina and Paraguay for decades. The War of the Triple Alliance, a union of Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay, against Paraguay eventually clarified the border in 1870. While this war was unimaginably ruinous for Paraguay the other involved parties swung up to the wealthiest nations in South America. The picture was taken from the Argentine side in Puerto Iguazú. You see the border triangle at the confluence of the rivers Iguazú and Paraná. The lights on the left belong to Ciudad del Este in Paraguay, those on the right to the Brazilian city Foz do Iguaçu. Paraguay is separated from Brazil and Argentina by the Paraná River, whereas the Iguazú River forms the natural border between Argentina and Brazil.

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Arrival in Mesopotamia

• 8

The whole night the bus went through Mesopotamia. In the morning we arrived at our destination in the northeastern corner of Argentina, the "land between the rivers". Mesopotámica, as it is called in Spanish, is the name for the region between the Rivers Paraná and Uruguay, which consists of the provinces Entre Ríos, Corrientes, and Misiones. Overnight the landscape had enormously changed and it was pretty obvious that we have arrived in a different climate zone. While Buenos Aires' climate is temperate, the area we ended up is hot and humid. The soil is wonderfully reddish brown and the surrounding flora is verdant and dense giving an air of adventure and paradise.

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Tails of Fire and Sparks in the Night

• 10

From the beginning, the cama suite was well worth the money and the coach couldn't be more comfy. For hours, I switched between reading and looking out of the bus window. For miles there was nothing but plain fields and emptiness. Then the last bit of brightness was gone. Now that the darkness has covered the land, the look out the window reveals only some fragile lines of light of the sparsely passing traffic. Soon dinner will be served and then it is time to decline the seat to its full extend. Tomorrow a new day awaits in a different climate zone.

• I'm reading: Tails of Fire and Sparks in the Night

Cama Suite for Overnight Bus Travel

• 4

Argentina is so huge that either an internal flight or an overnight bus is the most practical way to get around. Long distance bus providers offer some of the most luxurious and comfortable busses in the world. Taking an intercity bus is like flying. Logically, the higher the category you book the better the service and comfort will be. The most comfy but still affordable option is the cama suite (this is equivalent to flying business class). There will be food & beverages served by a steward/stewardess and you get entertained with a video and audio program. There are many other comfort classes so there's something for every budget. An overview and description of the comfort classes can be found here.

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Villa 31 across Retiro Bus Terminal

• 7

Once you have bought your ticket and sit comfortably in the coach you are about to make a strange experience. Right after you have left the Terminal de Ómnibus de Retiro, the first thing you traverse is a so called villa miseria. A villa miseria is the Argentinean version of a slum area. These precarious housings belong to Villa 31 which is just across the huge bus terminal. In the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires there are 21 of these slums, according to estimates several hundreds of these "precarious neighborhoods" exist in Greater Buenos Aires. Public authorities tend to euphemistically call these zones asentamientos (settlements). Well, don't let 'em hornswoggle you!

• I'm reading: Villa 31 across Retiro Bus Terminal